Tuesday, May 23, 2023

DAY 11: SAN JUAN DE ORTEGA TO BURGOS (May 20)

 We had a solid 6 hour walk into Burgos today. Most of the trek was along beautiful countryside and fields of wheat. However, going into Burgos this year was different from 2023. We were sent along a very busy road (with barely enough room for walking along the shoulder) to a broad, industrial lined avenue. Not a very impressive way to enter the city. Gladly we found a Burger King nestled along the way where we could get a quick hamburger and use the restroom (that was much needed at this point! We had gone several miles without a restaurant or bar in sight). It was sad to leave my beloved San Juan de Ortega but glad to be in Burgos with its magnificent Cathedral.



The village of Agés. Going through the village you will see animals painted on the sides of the buildings as if they are peering at you from windows, Quite fun!




The bridge below was build by San Juan de Ortega in the 11th century. It is still used by pilgrims to cross the small stream (when there is water in it!)



On the way up the rocky hill to the Cruz de Matagrande we came into a herd of sheep. I spoke with the shepherd. A very kind man similar to my age but a lot rougher. He told me about how the valley below had once been the home to many, many sheep herds. However, the young people have abandoned this lifestyle that his one of the last remaining herds. There was a sadness in his voice, especially when he told me that he planned on retiring in a couple of years and would then have to "dispose" of his herd. His dog was incredible. It is a mixed breed of Belgian and Basque Pastor. She was a lively little gal that was unafraid of the sheep.


Below is the Cruz de Matagrande where you get your first glimpse of Burgos.




Since the Middle Ages pilgrims would have caught their first glimpse not of the front of the Cathedral but from the back with his expansive and impressive towers. It would have been a moving moment for them as it is for us.





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