Alcalá is a beautiful city located east of Madrid. The city is home to the Universidad de Alcalá that was founded by Cardinal Cisneros (advisor to the Catholic Kings Isabel and Fernando) in 1500. One of Alcalá's most noted citizens was Miguel de Cervantes, author of the famed Don Quixote de la Mancha (1605; 1615). Here are some sites from around town:
The Plaza Cervantes
Cervantes' Birthplace.
Next door to Cervantes' home is the Antiguo Hospital Benefico Nuestra Señora de la Misericordia. Established in 1483, it was intended as a place to care for the poor, the indigent, the sick, and pilgrims. Today it still functions as a place where those who are in their "third age" reside and are cared for. It is said that Rodrigo de Cervantes, the father of Miguel, worked here as a surgeon "sangrador" in this very hospital.
Interestingly the Cervantes home is located at a vital intersection between the old Jewish and Muslim Quarters (some believe that Cervantes' family members were of Jewish descent and later "conversos"). Along the calle Mayor (where his home is located) is (and was) a thriving commercial district (see below).
In Cervantes' day merchants occupied the upper floors and had their businesses below along the covered walkway. These walkways protected the shoppers from the heat of the sun and even perhaps from the occasional cry of "agua abajo" when the families would toss the contents of their bedpans into the muddy streets below.
One of the fascinating aspects of this walk along the calle Mayor are the columns. Some of the columns are of recent vintage (19th century) while others date from the Roman and Visigothic periods. The practice of "recycling" stone, columns, and other construction materials from ruins is often referred to as "spolio."
Below is the capital of the column closest to you in the photo. It is likely that this column once adorned an early Christian church. You will note the "cherubim" (head and wings resting on clouds).
Throughout Spain, storks are protected and allowed to build their nests wherever they decide is most convenient. Because storks maintain a monogamous relationship throughout their life they will return to the same nest year after year. These nests are huge, some of them reaching nearly one ton in weight! In some areas the nests are so large and concentrated that roofs have collapsed.
The last couple of days have involved Roman Days in Alcalá (originally known as Complutum). There are huge markets where you can buy an array of items:
including medicinal herbs and teas...
pickled eggplant (typical of Almagro) that are quite tasty
and green olives stuffed with cheese, anchovies, almonds, etc.
dried meats (sausages)...
a variety of candies, sweets and nuts...
and therapeutic soaps... And there is food everywhere!!
The street entertainers are the best. Dancers, jugglers, musicians, "mythic giants," people dressed as Roman soldiers and a few odd characters can be found everywhere (see the last photo).
(this is a guy bent over with this costume on dancing in the street; his feet are those of the man and his hands are the feet of the woman)
Note: The Roman Fair isn't the only place to find great candies and dried fruit. On the calle Mayor there is a shop called "Delicatessen del Mundo". It is a regular stop for us while in Alcalá.
The highlight of our morning walk was to visit the Convento de las Carmelitas Descalzas de la Concepción. This convent was established in 1563 by María de Jesús Yepes with the support of Saint Teresa de Jesús, who initiated the reformation of the order. St. Teresa resided in this monastery for a short time. All the many times that I have visited Alcalá I had yet to find the convent open. Fortunately, we arrived shortly after they had concluded mass and the doorkeeper allowed us to step in for a few moments. Great experience!
Finally, in keeping with the reason we are here in Spain (e.g., preparing to walk Saint James Way), Alcalá also has an important connection. At the Catedral Magistral de los Santos Justo y Pastor you will find the beginning of the "Camino Complutense."
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