Today we spent the morning and early afternoon in San Millán de la Cogolla. There are two monasteries in this small hamlet. Suso (the one above) was where monks in the 6th century would go to meditate. The first anachorite monk to occupy the caves was Millán (Emiliano) who was a student of San Felices (473-574). Over time other monks joined the community and they began to build a more permanent structure around the cave complex. It is interesting to see the several architectural phases that make up this small monastery (pre-Romanesque, Visigothic, Romanesque, Mozárabe). Below are some of the spaces:
The Monastery known as "Suso" (that which is above). An interesting legend states that a woman (Santa Oria) came to San Millán to pursue a life as a Benedictine nun. She moved into the monastery in Suso and, according to some believers, lived in a sealed room (note the small window closest to the door). From the room she would bless visitors. Many miracles are associated with her. The major source of information on Santa Oria comes from the poet Gonzalo de Berceo.
To the left is a Mozarabic star to the left is a Byzantine cross possibly with a pilgrim pointing to it in recognition of his penance.
For centuries pilgrims would divert their path to Suso. There they would leave "religious graffitti" on the walls. The two above photos are examples.
Twin pillars made from alabaster probably "spolio" from Visigothic buildings.
This is the cenotaph commemorating San Millán (12th century). Originally his remains were found in this space. However, in 1053 García Sanchez attempted to move the saints remains to the Monasterio de Santa María la Real in Nájera. According to legend the oxen pulling the cart carrying the saints remains reached the bottom of the hill and and refused to move any further. As a result a second monastery (Yuso; that which is below) was constructed that same year.
(we did not have any lamps because of a power outage. It was an amazing experience the monastery perhaps in a way that the monks lived with out natural light and perhaps some candle light)
After our visit to Suso we went down the mountain to Yuso (the "newer" of the two monasteries). The current building is a later construction over the original 11th century building. We had the privilege of having the Prior of the religious community take us on a visit. Here are some things that we saw:
The chapel
The organ
These are "cantorales" (hymn books). Each one weights between 50-70 kilos (110-150 lbs). They are placed on a large rotating stand (below). What is interested is that they are carefully stored in vaults with alabaster lining an open space underneath (alabaster helps control the temperature). On one end is a hole that allows cats to go under the books to eat the mice or rats that might try to gnaw on the books. Ingenious!
Scribal table
This the beautifully built chest that holds the remains of San Millán. Each of the panels are carved ivory and depict the life and miracles of the saint. Below is one of the panels:
The Library!
This small door led to a space where "censured" books were locked away and made completely inaccessible to the monks. Today it holds some of the monasteries oldest and most valuable books. The Prior brought some out for us to handle and see.
This was the oldest of the books dating from 1079.
This book was my favorite. It is an edition of Erasmus's New Testament (early 16th century) set up in parallel columns. The part above is part of the introduction and you can see that whole sections have been censored. Erasmus was a bit of rebel and the Catholic Church was often at odds with his Humanist views.
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