DAY 4: PUENTE LA REINA TO ESTELLA (May 11)

 Today's hike was a solid 15 miles. Getting into Estella was very gratifying. It is a beautiful town with a beautiful church, Iglesia de San Pedro de la Rua. Here are the things that we saw along the way.

Puente la Reina (11th century); this bridge was commissioned by Queen Doña Mayor. At the time the small town on the banks of the river was growing in commercial importance.

A few kilometers from Puente la Reina is the city of Cirauqui. Not only is it picturesque but its fame comes from a long Roman road that pilgrims walk as they leave the city, crossing a Roman bridge and continuing on along a pedestrian path also built by the Romans (see below)

Nestled between the two paths is this beautiful medieval bridge.

Here you see Jannette walking along the Roman pathway

This stage of the Camino is one of the loveliest. The flowers are just starting to bloom along the fields of wheat and barley.

Below is another of the many medieval bridges that go over the rivers in the region.

The fields of wheat and barley go on and on for kilometers in any direction.

Below is the Bridge at Villatuerta that crosses the Rio Irantzu.

Along the way there are any number of churches or hermitages. This is one of my favorites: the Ermita de San Miguel Arcangel. It was built in the 10 century. At one time the interior was decorated with reliefs that have since been removed and place in the Museo de Navarra. Today when you enter the ermita you will find a simple altar on which people have place requests and prayers.

The entrance to Estella is marked by a cross. Just a few yards ahead you enter the city's old Jewish quarter.

As you continue on along the Camino you come to the Iglesia de la Santa Sepulcro. The building was constructed continuously between the 13th and 16th centuries. The timpanum of the doors is what fascinates me.

Below is a detailed shot of the timpanum: 

• Top: the crucified Christ in the center; to the left is a man holding his face - this is Longinus, a Christian convert, who, according to 11th century texts, was partially blind. His task was to pierce the side of Christ to assure all that he died. When he pierced the Savior's side a stream of blood ran along the spear and covered Longinus's hand. At that moment he lifted his bloodied hand to his face and miraculously he regained his sight. You will see two large figures on either side of the cross. These are the Virgin Mary (left) and St. John (right). The represents the moment that the Savior charged John with caring for the Christ's mother. In the far edges on either side are the two thieves who were crucified with Christ.
• Middle: This section is divided in half. On the left you see the empty tomb with the angel telling Mary Magdalene and the other Mary's that the Christ is not there. In Mary Magdalene's hand is the shroud that was left behind. Along the front of the tomb image are the sleeping guards. On the right is the scene of Christ preaching to those who are in spiritual prison (these are the souls coming out of the mouth of the beast. To the far right is moment when the Savior appears to Mary Magalene and tells her not to embrace him.
• The bottom: Scene from the last supper. We see John the Beloved with his head resting on the Savior's chest. To the left of the Savior you see a figure holding what appears to be a bowl. This is probably Saint Peter holding the "holy grail." On the left side you see Christ apparently feeding one of his disciples. This is probably Judas Iscariot. The seat occupied by John and that by Judas were considered to be the most privileged. Where John's gesture is one of love and concern, the other denotes the betrayal in that Judas receives the morsel ("the sop") directly from the Savior only to betray him. A marvelous juxtaposition of absolute love and absolute depravity.

Below we are entering Estella

Along the Camino you pass by the Iglesia de San Pedro de la Rua. It is in itself a beautiful example of 12th century Romanesque arquitecture. However, the real treasure is its cloister (a locus amoenus) with its arches and capitals that represent scenes from the Old Testament and the life of Christ. These spaces were where the monks would stroll and contemplate scripture; they would then elevate their prayers to God on behalf of the world.