Today we climbed a mountain and walked beside endless plains of wheat. There were a few villages along the way, but no single place with more than a dozen or more people living there. This area is part of Spain's breadbasket region. Our final destination was Frómista with its amazing Iglesia de San Martín de Frómista. Every step along the 17 miles was well worth it. For me it was a personal success. Last year we rode bikes from Burgos to Frómista (about 40 miles). Just outside of the town I got violently ill barely able to push my bike to the hotel. This year I walked in triumphantly. When I walked into the hotel the attendant looked at me and said something to the effect, "I remember you. Last year you were the one who arrived sick!
The pictures above and below are of a Medieval path built on the foundation of a Roman causeway.
We are heading for that mountain ahead. It doesn't seem too daunting until you start up it. But from the top you get an amazing view of the valley below (looking back towards Castrojeríiz)
This is walking across the top of the mountain that forms a mesa. You then drop down into another beautiful expanse of farmland.
Along the way we came to this Ermita de San Nicolás (12th century). Today it is a hostel for pilgrims. They don't take reservations. If you want to stay here you have to line up outside (or put your backpack along the wall) and wait until the owners begin to make assignments at around 2 pm.
After passing the Ermita you cross this Medieval bridge over the Rio Pisuerga.
Soon you are back on the open plains. There isn't anything for miles except fields of grain.
About 4 kilometers from Frómista there is this canal; built sometime in the 18th century. What caught my eye was the sky. The strangest cloud formations I have every seen.
In Frómista we visited one of my all time favorite churches: La Iglesia de San Martín de Frómista. It was built in the later part of the 11th century.
Its uniqueness is found in the interior capitals and in the exterior "canecillos". Here are some examples of the decorative capitals.
THE FALL OF ADAM AND EVE
THE EXPULSION FROM THE GARDEN OF EDEN
This capital is particularly interesting and its location is significant to its meaning. This capital is located where the congregants would have entered the church for mass. It depicts the story of the Fox and the Crow. In the fable a crow has found a piece of cheese and retired to a branch to eat it. A fox, wanting it for himself, flatters the crow, calling it beautiful and wondering whether its voice is as sweet to match. When it lets out a caw, the cheese falls and is devoured by the fox. It is a reminder that vanity and pride are to be avoided when entering the sanctuary to worship.
On the outside of the church are "canecillos." These decorations line the eaves of the church. There are 309 of them depicting demons, condemned souls, and the seven deadly sins. This type of decoration was common in the Middle Ages. The façade of the church is outward facing and these figures remind the viewer of the evils that surround them. Entering the church is leaving behind the vices and temptations of the world and entering into the Divine presence.
This evening we had a very "fancy" meal. We started with a salad with a fried circle of cheese on top.
It was followed by lamb and fries (which are common side dish in Spain).
No comments:
Post a Comment