Roncesvalles Day 2 (May 7)

 Today was Sunday without a meeting to attend. Terri Weatherford planned a beautiful meeting with "Come, Follow Me" and a time for testimonies. Afterwards we rested, talked about the hymns that we are singing along the Camino, and looked at some religious poetry. We took a stroll around the very, very small village and came upon the owner of the property owner across the road from the Colegiata feeding his mares and colts of all things old stale bread.

The center point of Roncesvalles is the Real Colegiata de Nuestra Señora de Roncesvalles and its cloister.

The Colegiata was built in the 13th century and is a typical French gothic design.

This is the main altar. The statue of the Virgin (located under the canopy in the apse) is from the 14th century and is made of wood. She is covered in silver. After mass today we sang "All Creatures of Our God and King" to the pilgrims in the Colegiata.

After the mass one of the priests took us on a tour of the Colegiata and the cloister:

Above is what is known as the crypt but it does not hold any burial spaces. It was designed as a support for the apse that is immediately above. The church is built on the edge of a hill and extends out beyond the edge. Below you can see the backside of the church where the crypt is located.

The priest then took us into the cloister. It is a reconstruction from the the 1600 when the entire cloister collapsed under snow. It is built to be like a fortress and to protect it from any future collapses.

(They have a recent photo of snow piled up to the top of the arches; a height of about 12 feet)

Just off the cloister you can see the tomb of Sancho VII, the Strong (1154-1234). The effigy is sculpted after the English-style (with the typical crossed legs as a sign of humility). They claim that the size of the sculpture represents his actual height of a little over 7 feet!? Sancho is known for his participation in the Battle of the Navas de Tolosa (1212) which was key to the further expansion of the Christian kingdom. From that battle he brought back prisoner chains used by the Moors. The chain motif has now become an integral part of the flag of Navarro.

We had a great day!

Roncesvalles, Day 1

We bade fairwell to Alcalá de Henares and made our way to Roncesvalles. We made arrangements to have some drivers take us to the Cross of Thibault. The trip took us into France just south of San Jean Pied de Port in the high Pyrennes. What we found was the most amazing vistas (see below).

The Camino took us past herds of sheep quietly grazing on the mountain sides...

We walked along steep, rocky trails as well as leaf-strewn paths; through beautiful forests...

It was indeed a beautiful and peaceful beginning to our adventure. Tomorrow we rest (Sunday) and start out nice and early on Monday on our road to Santiago de Compostela.

Trip to Toledo, to the Museo Arqueológico Nacional, and to the Museo del Prado (May 4-5)

 We had two whirlwind days. On May 4 we spent the day in Toledo with our friend John Rosenberg. We learned a lot about the city, its people, its culture and its people. Below is the famous "view of Toledo" that has inspired many artists, primary among them was El Greco:

On Friday, May 5, we spent hours in the two museums learning and seeing artifacts that tell the story of Spain's development. The Prado is always my favorite. Jannette visited some of our favorites including Velázquez's Las meninas, Ribalta's Christ embracing Saint Bernard and Juan de Juanes's The Last Supper.

Madrid Temple Trip

Wednesday evening we had a wonderful group moment attending the Madrid Temple.

We got back late to Alcalá (due to a couple of little glitches maneuvering the subway/train system!) When we arrived the lunch room at the Residencia had closed so we went to a kebab place on the plaza. Walking back to the Residencia Jannette and I encountered a beautiful full moon.

Alcalá continued...

 We started the day in front of the Universidad de Alcalá with a lesson on "reading" architecture. The university was established in 1500 by Cardinal Francisco Jiménez Cisneros who served as counselor to the Catholic Kings, Isabel of Castile and Fernando de Aragón. The façade was constructed over the original brick/stone construction of the Colegio de San Idelfonso between 1537 and 1553. The façade represents a clear example of "purist Renaissance" architecture and stands at a significant crossroad in juxtaposition to the pending Councils of Trent that would place significant restrictions on art and representation as the Church attempted to rein in and codify Catholic doctrine and practice. The method employed was "plateresque" because the sculptures imitate the designs used by silversmiths from the period.

The façade is a treasure trove of representations both religious and mythical that point the viewer towards the institution's primary goal: the pursuit of knowledge both "secular" and religious. Integrated throughout the building are reminders of the foundation of knowledge in God, Peter and Paul, and the Church Fathers: San Ambrosio, San Gregorio, San Jerónmo, and San Agustín. The ten windows along the third floor are thought to represent the Ten Commandments while above them are twelve flames or torches that allude to the day of Pentecost. Dominating the scene at the apex of the central area high above the entrance is the representation of God and prominent above God's head is a "custodia" that holds a representation the "host" or sacramental wafer signifying the body of Christ.

Directly below the representation of God is the seal of  Charles I of Spain with the two-headed eagle of the Holy Roman Empire. The shield details the heraldry of the many countries that fell under the rule of  Charles who was not only the King of Spain but also the Emperor of the Holy Roman Empire. On each side of the shield are the columns of Hercules with the phrase "Plus Ultra" (meaning "further beyond") written one word on each column. This was to remind the observer of the extent of the King's power throughout the known world.

Below the royal shield is a representation of San Idelfonso (located just above the balcony/window). On each side are "alabarderos" (the king's invincible warriors) with two more figures, known as atlas, flanking them and holding tightly to support columns. All this action turns inwardly to force us to focus on the iron-clad balcony/window. Behind this iron grate is the university's library; an inner sanctum of knowledge.

The figures on either side (both real and mythic) are charged with protecting and upholding the place of knowledge within the framework of the university. Interestingly, before one enters the doors of the university they must cross a barrier of columns and chains. This barrier symbolizes the passage from the common sphere of the public plaza to that of the place of learning; passing the doors into the inner patios of the university.

Later today we went to the home/birthplace of Miguel de Cervantes. It is a lovely representation of how Cervantes might have lived and the things that might have filled the home's several spaces. Little is original to the home except the well in the central courtyard.

Here are some of the rooms and the way that they might have been during the author's lifetime:

Since his father was a surgeon it is possible that his patients would have come to the home for treatment.

The lady's sitting room

The kitchen

All in all it was a good day filled with learning. Tomorrow will be yet an other experience and adventure. Stay tuned!

Alcalá de Henares - The Pre-Adventure Adventure

 Alcalá is a beautiful city located east of Madrid. The city is home to the Universidad de Alcalá that was founded by Cardinal Cisneros (advisor to the Catholic Kings Isabel and Fernando) in 1500. One of Alcalá's most noted citizens was Miguel de Cervantes, author of the famed Don Quixote de la Mancha (1605; 1615). Here are some sites from around town:

The Plaza Cervantes

Cervantes' Birthplace. 

Next door to Cervantes' home is the Antiguo Hospital Benefico Nuestra Señora de la Misericordia. Established in 1483, it was intended as a place to care for the poor, the indigent, the sick, and pilgrims. Today it still functions as a place where those who are in their "third age" reside and are cared for. It is said that Rodrigo de Cervantes, the father of Miguel, worked here as a surgeon "sangrador" in this very hospital.

Interestingly the Cervantes home is located at a vital intersection between the old Jewish and Muslim Quarters (some believe that Cervantes' family members were of Jewish descent and later "conversos"). Along the calle Mayor (where his home is located) is (and was) a thriving commercial district (see below).

In Cervantes' day merchants occupied the upper floors and had their businesses below along the covered walkway. These walkways protected the shoppers from the heat of the sun and even perhaps from the occasional cry of "agua abajo" when the families would toss the contents of their bedpans into the muddy streets below.

One of the fascinating aspects of this walk along the calle Mayor are the columns. Some of the columns are of recent vintage (19th century) while others date from the Roman and Visigothic periods. The practice of "recycling" stone, columns, and other construction materials from ruins is often referred to as "spolio."

Below is the capital of the column closest to you in the photo. It is likely that this column once adorned an early Christian church. You will note the "cherubim" (head and wings resting on clouds).

Throughout Spain, storks are protected and allowed to build their nests wherever they decide is most convenient. Because storks maintain a monogamous relationship throughout their life they will return to the same nest year after year. These nests are huge, some of them reaching nearly one ton in weight! In some areas the nests are so large and concentrated that roofs have collapsed.

The last couple of days have involved Roman Days in Alcalá (originally known as Complutum). There are huge markets where you can buy an array of items: 

including medicinal herbs and teas...

pickled eggplant (typical of Almagro) that are quite tasty

and green olives stuffed with cheese, anchovies, almonds, etc.

dried meats (sausages)...

a variety of candies, sweets and nuts...

and therapeutic soaps... And there is food everywhere!!

The street entertainers are the best. Dancers, jugglers, musicians, "mythic giants," people dressed as Roman soldiers and a few odd characters can be found everywhere (see the last photo).

(this is a guy bent over with this costume on dancing in the street; his feet are those of the man and his hands are the feet of the woman)

Note: The Roman Fair isn't the only place to find great candies and dried fruit. On the calle Mayor there is a shop called "Delicatessen del Mundo". It is a regular stop for us while in Alcalá.

The highlight of our morning walk was to visit the Convento de las Carmelitas Descalzas de la Concepción. This convent was established in 1563 by María de Jesús Yepes with the support of Saint Teresa de Jesús, who initiated the reformation of the order. St. Teresa resided in this monastery for a short time. All the many times that I have visited Alcalá I had yet to find the convent open. Fortunately, we arrived shortly after they had concluded mass and the doorkeeper allowed us to step in for a few moments. Great experience!

Finally, in keeping with the reason we are here in Spain (e.g., preparing to walk Saint James Way), Alcalá also has an important connection. At the Catedral Magistral de los Santos Justo y Pastor you will find the beginning of the "Camino Complutense."