DAY 28: SARRIA TO PORTOMARíN (June 15)

This is one of those days that you know is coming but don't look forward to living. Sarria is where a large number of people join the Camino. It is just over 100 kilometers from Santiago and if you complete this section you can still receive the coveted compostela that declares you a pilgrim. Here you see a lot of young people from Europe who have just finished their classes and are now part of youth groups. It is funny to watch the newly arrived pilgrims with their clean, unscuffed shoes, new clothes, and enormous amounts of energy along the trail. We who have crossed more than 660 kilometers (410 miles) walk more gingerly, have scuffed-up and worn shoes, and our clothes are seeing the signs of use. I feel badly for all those who wear clearly brand new, unbroken-in shoes! This is a blister party about to erupt on their feet.

Despite the loss of quiet and peaceful moments of contemplation, the trail continues to offer its beauties.

This is the Ponte Aspera (a lovely Medieval bridge) that puts you onto the trail. Just beyond this point was an elderly man selling walking staffs. As we passed him with our walking sticks (except Jannette who doesn't use them) he yelled out to us that we should buy one. When I thanked him and moved on he yelled back, "Ya verás" (You will see!) in a threatening way suggesting that if we had one of his staffs the walk would be easier. Ha, Ha, Ha!

We have had some lovely, foggy mornings. Mysterious and wonderful.

The fog lifting as the sun starts to break through

The Camino doubles as a cattle or sheep path for those who live in the small villages. We came across a lady bringing her cattle out of the barn to pasture. She was yelling at them in Gallego (the language of the region). When I asked her if they always behaved themselves, she only responded with "Sometimes."

(It reads: "My life isn't perfect, but it has its marvelous moments"; good food for thought, no pun intended)

This is an "horreo"; an elevated grain storage unit. Last year I chatted with the little old gentleman who lived here and he told me that this was built over 270 years ago; and that the paint was original.

View of Portomarín

There are two paths to enter Portomarín. This is my favorite. It is a rustic gully filled with large rocks. It is a challenge to navigate but adds a little "spice" to the experience.

The current city of Portomarín is a 20th century city. The Medieval city was located down along the banks of the river. In the 20th century a dam was built to create a reservoir and the city was covered. Last year the water level was low enough that we could go down and cross the Medieval bridge and explore the ruins of the old city. This year the water was well over the old bridge by about 20 feet. The only thing that was saved from the old city was a beautiful Romanesque church (La Iglesia de San Juan/San Nicolás).