DAY 16: CARRIóN DE LOS CONDES TO TERRADILLOS DE LOS TEMPLARIOS (May 27)

Today was a LONG, KANSAS-LIKE, FLAT stretch of the Camino. The path we walked was a LONG, STRAIGHT Roman road (which was very cool). Jannette always reads go about the path we are walking and the cities we pass along the way. For this day the person noted that there isn't much to see but don't discount the experience of looking at the flowers and listening to the birds. The advice was good, but didn't break up the monotony of the path. Leaving Carrión de los Condes was very pleasant. Crossing the bridge and noticing the work being done to keep the church from sliding into the river was interesting.

We met with a nice "farewell" to the city before entering the wasteland.

After passing through the only little village (Calzadilla de la Cueza) we passed through some hilly areas. Below are homes built into the side of the hill just outside the little town.

 

DAY 15: FRóMISTA TO CARRIóN DE LOS CONDES (May 26)

 Today was a short trek (14.34 miles). Again, we are still on the plains with long stretches of open fields. We stopped in Villalcázar de Sirga to visit La Parroquia de Santa María la Blanca. I will explain more about this site later. There was a threat of rain but fortunately all we got was a lot of wind. The temperature was mild and good for walking.

This beautiful little church was just off the highway along which the Camino goes. It is the Iglesia de San Miguel and was held by the Knights of Malta.

Villalcázar de Sirga

The image below is known as Santa María la Blanca (13th Century). There are number of miracles associated with this image; many of them chronicled by Alfonso X, el Sabio in his Cantigas de Santa María (1270-1282). 

The piece above is near the tomb of Felipe de Castilla y Suabia, the son of Fernando III, el Santo, and Felipe's second wife Inés Rodriguéz Girón. He was brothers to Alfonso X. Buried along with Felipe and Inés is Juan de Pereira, knight of the Order of Saint James.

The view below is from the back of the church's principal nave.  For some perspective note that the altar is approximately 40 feet high.

We are in Carrión de los Condes

Below is the Romanesque entrance to the Iglesia de Santiago in Carrión de los Condes. What draws my attention isn't the large representation of Christ in Glory at the threshold of the church but rather the archivolt with the smaller figures.

Here are the figures moving from left to right:

At the far left is a tailor with his scissors cutting some cloth

The figure on the right is of a blacksmith fanning the flames of his forge with a bellows.

the middle figure is of a scholar with book in hand

above are two soldiers in battle with their shields held high

the the center figure is of a violinist with legs crossed playing his instrument 

Similar to many Medieval churches these openings into sacred space often reminded those who entered that they were leaving the world to enter into the presence of the Divine. Unlike the church in Frómista that reminded people of the sinfulness of the world, this one reminds them that they are leaving aside the daily world of work and politics to be with God.

DAY 14: CASTROJERIZ TO FRóMISTA (May 25)

 Today we climbed a mountain and walked beside endless plains of wheat. There were a few villages along the way, but no single place with more than a dozen or more people living there. This area is part of Spain's breadbasket region. Our final destination was Frómista with its amazing Iglesia de San Martín de Frómista. Every step along the 17 miles was well worth it. For me it was a personal success. Last year we rode bikes from Burgos to Frómista (about 40 miles). Just outside of the town I got violently ill barely able to push my bike to the hotel. This year I walked in triumphantly. When I walked into the hotel the attendant looked at me and said something to the effect, "I remember you. Last year you were the one who arrived sick!

The pictures above and below are of a Medieval path built on the foundation of a Roman causeway.

We are heading for that mountain ahead. It doesn't seem too daunting until you start up it. But from the top you get an amazing view of the valley below (looking back towards Castrojeríiz)

This is walking across the top of the mountain that forms a mesa. You then drop down into another beautiful expanse of farmland.

Along the way we came to this Ermita de San Nicolás (12th century). Today it is a hostel for pilgrims. They don't take reservations. If you want to stay here you have to line up outside (or put your backpack along the wall) and wait until the owners begin to make assignments at around 2 pm.

After passing the Ermita you cross this Medieval bridge over the Rio Pisuerga.

Soon you are back on the open plains. There isn't anything for miles except fields of grain.

About 4 kilometers from Frómista there is this canal; built sometime in the 18th century. What caught my eye was the sky. The strangest cloud formations I have every seen.

In Frómista we visited one of my all time favorite churches: La Iglesia de San Martín de Frómista. It was built in the later part of the 11th century.

Its uniqueness is found in the interior capitals and in the exterior "canecillos". Here are some examples of the decorative capitals.

THE FALL OF ADAM AND EVE

THE EXPULSION FROM THE GARDEN OF EDEN

This capital is particularly interesting and its location is significant to its meaning. This capital is located where the congregants would have entered the church for mass. It depicts the story of the Fox and the Crow. In the fable a crow has found a piece of cheese and retired to a branch to eat it. A fox, wanting it for himself, flatters the crow, calling it beautiful and wondering whether its voice is as sweet to match. When it lets out a caw, the cheese falls and is devoured by the fox. It is a reminder that vanity and pride are to be avoided when entering the sanctuary to worship.

On the outside of the church are "canecillos." These decorations line the eaves of the church. There are 309 of them depicting demons, condemned souls, and the seven deadly sins. This type of decoration was common in the Middle Ages. The façade of the church is outward facing and these figures remind the viewer of the evils that surround them. Entering the church is leaving behind the vices and temptations of the world and entering into the Divine presence.

This evening we had a very "fancy" meal. We started with a salad with a fried circle of cheese on top. 

It was followed by lamb and fries (which are common side dish in Spain).