DAY 29: PORTOMARíN TO PALAIS DE REI (June 16)

Yet another day walking, talking, and experiencing the Camino. Still a lot of jaunty newbies on the trail. We had a lot of hilly walking today, but it was generally pretty good.

Just a couple of hundred feet off the trail is this archeological site. These are the remains of a Bronze age city called Castro Maior. Very interesting and quick side trip. 

Story time: This little building is called Las Ventas de Narón and is dedicated to Santa María Magdalena. What is unique here is that there is a blind gentleman who attends to the pilgrims and provides them with a "seal" for the credential. With each seal you take him by the hand and move the stamp to where you want it placed and he then stamps it. I chatted with him a bit and let him know that I remembered him from last year. He took my hand, came around from where he was sitting and gave me a big hug. It was a very tender moment.

Frequently along the Camino we come across these crosses. Some are literally at "cross roads" others are found along the way of shrines. This one was erected in 1672. It has a lovely representation of the "Virgen dolorosa" (The Virgin in Pain) holding the body of the Christ. They are often known as "Pietas."

I love the unique reminders that you are on the Camino; statues of St. James, yellow arrows...

DAY 28: SARRIA TO PORTOMARíN (June 15)

This is one of those days that you know is coming but don't look forward to living. Sarria is where a large number of people join the Camino. It is just over 100 kilometers from Santiago and if you complete this section you can still receive the coveted compostela that declares you a pilgrim. Here you see a lot of young people from Europe who have just finished their classes and are now part of youth groups. It is funny to watch the newly arrived pilgrims with their clean, unscuffed shoes, new clothes, and enormous amounts of energy along the trail. We who have crossed more than 660 kilometers (410 miles) walk more gingerly, have scuffed-up and worn shoes, and our clothes are seeing the signs of use. I feel badly for all those who wear clearly brand new, unbroken-in shoes! This is a blister party about to erupt on their feet.

Despite the loss of quiet and peaceful moments of contemplation, the trail continues to offer its beauties.

This is the Ponte Aspera (a lovely Medieval bridge) that puts you onto the trail. Just beyond this point was an elderly man selling walking staffs. As we passed him with our walking sticks (except Jannette who doesn't use them) he yelled out to us that we should buy one. When I thanked him and moved on he yelled back, "Ya verás" (You will see!) in a threatening way suggesting that if we had one of his staffs the walk would be easier. Ha, Ha, Ha!

We have had some lovely, foggy mornings. Mysterious and wonderful.

The fog lifting as the sun starts to break through

The Camino doubles as a cattle or sheep path for those who live in the small villages. We came across a lady bringing her cattle out of the barn to pasture. She was yelling at them in Gallego (the language of the region). When I asked her if they always behaved themselves, she only responded with "Sometimes."

(It reads: "My life isn't perfect, but it has its marvelous moments"; good food for thought, no pun intended)

This is an "horreo"; an elevated grain storage unit. Last year I chatted with the little old gentleman who lived here and he told me that this was built over 270 years ago; and that the paint was original.

View of Portomarín

There are two paths to enter Portomarín. This is my favorite. It is a rustic gully filled with large rocks. It is a challenge to navigate but adds a little "spice" to the experience.

The current city of Portomarín is a 20th century city. The Medieval city was located down along the banks of the river. In the 20th century a dam was built to create a reservoir and the city was covered. Last year the water level was low enough that we could go down and cross the Medieval bridge and explore the ruins of the old city. This year the water was well over the old bridge by about 20 feet. The only thing that was saved from the old city was a beautiful Romanesque church (La Iglesia de San Juan/San Nicolás).

DAY 27: TRIACASTELA TO SARRIA (June 14)

To understand today we have to consider yesterday afternoon. We were blessed to have our friend Art Lowe visit with the group and share his love for the Savior. He is one of the many friends that we have who share our love of God. This morning we all gathered at this little studio located on the Camino. He painted for each of us in our Camino credential a personalized "sello" (below) and then we sang hymns with him. It was such a wonderfully spiritual coming together of faith and love.

My friend Art Lowe

Jannette's

Lin's

After spending about an hour with him we started our on our trek. Again, it had a lot of ups and downs, over hill and through dell.

I learned from Art that there is an orchid that grows in these valleys. Sadly, they are all flowered out by now.

Today I spent a lot of time thinking; more than usual. I watched as people on the Camino hurriedly tromped along without seemingly paying attention to what was around them. So many people seem set on getting to the next city rather than enjoying the things along the way or pausing to visit with other pilgrims. We had two really special experiences today. First, we spent a long time walking and visiting with three friends from Oklahoma who were traveling together. All three had experienced the loss of a loved one; two had lost a spouse and the other a 24 year old son. We first ran into them in Triacastela and then when we paused at Art Lowe's studio. Art had requested that we sing "How Great Thou Art" with him. These three friends were there with us.  After we sang the lady in the group came up to us and told us how their little group had climbed a hill above O Cebreiro and sang that hymn; the favorite of the one whose son had died. She told us that she felt that their efforts were meager and prayed that an they might hear it sung by those whose voices would bring the spirit in. They we were; Art had suggested the hymn the night before; we were there to sing it; and the three friends were standing with us in the tight little studio. We all felt the Spirit so deeply. In the end it was an answer to the pilgrim's prayer and the fulfillment of a request made by our friend Art. Truly God moves in mysterious ways his wonders to perform.

The second experience happened in a very odd way. So, we are only about 30 minutes outside of Sarria when Lizzy declares that she must use the restroom. There happened to be a "camping" stop and restaurant in front of us so we go in. Who should we find but the lady from Alabama and her son. You will recall that I talked about this woman who had lost an older son. She and the younger son were on the pilgrimage as a sort of healing of their hearts and souls. We had a chance to catch up on what had been happening with them and shared a wonderful moment.

Again, God moves in mysterious ways his wonders to perform.

One of the things that I am learning is that too often we focus so hard on the goal ahead of us that we fail to see all the little beauties and tender mercies that fill the spaces around us as we move along life's path. Hopefully I can be a little more aware of and enjoy the journey as much as reaping the benefits of the final result.
 

We walked around a bit in Sarria.

The best moment was seeing this older gentleman at about 9:30 at night out in his garden weeding. This is the life!

DAY 26: O CEBREIRO TO TRIACASTELA (June 13)

 Today's hike literally had its ups and downs. A lot of hills and a long descent into Triacastela. This is a really beautiful area. We stayed at a 17th century country home (rustic; made of stone). Very fun adventure.

Morning view from our hotel room as we bid farewell to O Cebreiro

We see a lot of beautiful and unusual flowers along the path

This is the Alto de San Roque. The statue is of a pilgrim weathering the winds that often impact this area. We were fortunate this year that it was a calm day.

Where early in the trip we would come across fields of red poppies, in this area we see fields of daisies.

This was a miserable climb to the Alto del Poio. It is a very sharp incline for about a quarter mile. 

Foxglove (Digitalis) is also abundant in this area of Spain

This is one type of "horreo" found in Galicia. They were used to store grains and cure meats. They were set on pedestals to keep them off of the almost always damp ground. They also provided some protection from vermin.

The highlight of this stretch is the "Castaño centenario" (below). This chestnut tree is over 800 years old. It is truly a marvel to behold and to think of the generations of pilgrims that have paused here over the centuries is overwhelming.