DAY 26: O CEBREIRO TO TRIACASTELA (June 13)

 Today's hike literally had its ups and downs. A lot of hills and a long descent into Triacastela. This is a really beautiful area. We stayed at a 17th century country home (rustic; made of stone). Very fun adventure.

Morning view from our hotel room as we bid farewell to O Cebreiro

We see a lot of beautiful and unusual flowers along the path

This is the Alto de San Roque. The statue is of a pilgrim weathering the winds that often impact this area. We were fortunate this year that it was a calm day.

Where early in the trip we would come across fields of red poppies, in this area we see fields of daisies.

This was a miserable climb to the Alto del Poio. It is a very sharp incline for about a quarter mile. 

Foxglove (Digitalis) is also abundant in this area of Spain

This is one type of "horreo" found in Galicia. They were used to store grains and cure meats. They were set on pedestals to keep them off of the almost always damp ground. They also provided some protection from vermin.

The highlight of this stretch is the "Castaño centenario" (below). This chestnut tree is over 800 years old. It is truly a marvel to behold and to think of the generations of pilgrims that have paused here over the centuries is overwhelming.

DAY 25: VILLAFRANCA DEL BIERZO TO O CEBREIRO (June 12)

Today was one of the hardest yet most rewarding of our walks so far. From Villafranca del Bierzo to O Cebreiro with a 3000 foot elevation gain over 18 miles! On top of it all it rained and rained and rained. We were soaked by the time we got in to our hotel. But like I said, it was all worth it! Here is what we saw:

Leaving Villafranca del Bierzo

This Santiago pilgrim is by Noguera, a local artist.

View of Villafranca as we are beginning our ascent.

Views from along the way...

So, the picture below has a story and a history. Last year we passed this worn down house and I noticed this creepy little doll in the window. It scared poor Seth! This year we found it again in the same window. Lizzy hates dolls. We had to bribe her to stand in front of the house for a picture (see below).

She was a very good sport!

At this point we it tells us that we have walked 559 kilometers (a tick over 347 miles) and are 190 kilometers (118 miles ) short of our destination.

Just one of the little chapels along the way where pilgrims stop to meditate.

The hardest part of the climb went for about 6 miles (or more)

And we could still smile

Still not at the top...

Entering Galicia

The last stretch into O Cebreiro

The church at the top

It had been raining a lot. When it stopped we were surrounded by a dense fog. It was a little windy and humid.

The highlight was the sunset from our hotel balcony; the sun falling behind the mountains with the clouds settling into the valleys...

DAY 24: PONFERRADA TO VILLAFRANCA DEL BIERZO (June 10)

Today was a mild 15 mile trek through some beautiful vineyards. The area is known as El Bierzo and produces some of Spain's best wines (alongside La Rioja). We walked through some small cities located along rolling hills.

Thank goodness for markers to help us find our way and not get lost!

Crossing the river as we left Ponferrada looking back at the Templar Castle

Sometimes the markers can be quite entertaining. They help keep the trekking interesting!

We found a little friend along the way.

Yeah! We are less than 200 kilometers from our goal of Santiago de Compostela!

As we enter Villafranca del Bierzo we come upon this medieval church; La Iglesia de Santiago. The large door (to the left) is called the Puerta del Perdón (The Door of Forgiveness). In the middle ages if a person fell ill at this stage and was unable to make it to Santiago, they could be relieved of their sins by the local priest. The door has some beautiful capitals that tell the story of the three Kings who sought out the Christ child.

The three kings come before Herod.

As they sleep, an angel appears to them and warns them of Herod's deceit and they must leave.

They are seen here on their animals leaving to reach the Christ child

The last capital (most outward of the four) depicts the crucifixion. It seems that this sequence teaches the pilgrim a powerful story: the three magi came seeking the Christ. They confronted Herod (evil) and when they were warned by an angel of the king's intentions they fled the city. When they found Christ child they brought him gifts that represented the young child's place as King and Redeemer. Like the magi we should escape those who would destroy the Christ and mock his role as Redeemer. The capital with the Crucifixion reminds the pilgrim that we should be like the magi and seek out the Savior and honor him with our gifts of contrition and repentance.